A picture of one of my favorites cities in the world:
MY city ❤
Summer season was winding down, and like any season (in both nature and life), it had its ups like:
The best friend sleepover at the dream flat with MY best friend and Emily’s best friend! We got to snuggle in the dream flat and wake up the next morning with mimosas in hand.
#dreamflat pic minus the #dreamflatmate
The Best Friend Sleepover Squad – Champagne for breakfast!
Micromanaging the chocolate chip cookies when Helen and I were baking. We watched these little suckers minute by minute to make sure the cookies would rise like a phoenix from the ashes — but in the end they pretty much just stayed ashes. “Damn us.” Said Helen as we took the first bite. We’d left them in for a mere minute too long.
Having a jam sesh with Emily, Bel, and Kevin in the dream flat! Finally, all of the musical instruments that “we” own in the living room at the same time! Helen was elated!!
Going on a date at a Hungarian restaurant and going to banjo night afterwards. “Thanks for coming out!!”, The head guy yells. “We’re music lovers”, yells someone else. “We’re fans of leisure”, my date responds.
My NEW TAX GUY, JP. He’s changed my life for the better. Thanks to Matt for linking me with him! I celebrated my clean money with a dirty martini.
But the fleeting weeks also had its downs, like that one time I:
Came back from Burning Man with my skin SO DRY that I constantly had to put lotion all over my body to try to replace the moisture. I basically became a slug. Bel, remember when I was so slippery that I dropped a coffee mug all over my dresser?!
Had a very bad day (but got cheered up by taking a walk through the park, in the rain, to a make-your-own Bloody Mary bar).
This also very, VERY bad day:
Don’t need to explain this one…
The Friday night that I was feeling down and Helen was out of town. After I met a police woman who was somewhat of a sorority sister to me, I drove to a well-lit Get Go parking lot and ate panang curry in the car, windows up and doors locked.
Unrelated, I went on a bad date with a guy who’s “not a feminist.” Check please. The bright side was that Helen and Victoria were there to console me when I got home.
But even though there would be bad days, they didn’t last. I started seeing Julia again (she’s so helpful) and here are some more of my FRIENDS…
Sam Tallent. I hadn’t seen him in YEARS, and he’d come from Colorado to perform at a new comedy club that opened in Pittsburgh. It was so great to see him! I saw his standup show for the first (and second) time. (So good!) Afterwards we found time to catch up and reminisce.
Thankful for how many funny people I know.
Talkin’ bout Greg. You know, Greg. From college.
Victoria, who has made Helen (and I) suuuuuper fancy-adjacent nowadays. She’s so talented and has hung up her gorgeous art on the dreamflat walls, which she said are perfectly untextured, and which, if you don’t know, is one of the fanciest of compliments. #PinkyUp. She also gave me and Bel matching pumpkin necklaces on Halloween ❤
#GetAFlaw
Our beautiful Katie who started her globe-trotting journey in Iceland and sent us a text with the houses she picked out for Patrick, me, and Helen. Who NEEDS House Hunters International when you’ve got a friend like Katie?
The row of best friend houses; moving in ASAP.
A hangout sesh where I had some balloon flowers made for me which..I hated.. They popped and scared me. But, other times, I had fun made-up bedtime stories told to me and another time still, I got a chocolate flight (yum).
Emily C. and I had our first official friend hangout!
New, happy friends!
Nina, with her short-notice visit to Pittsburgh.
My pregnant Colleen who visited us in Findley Lake! I finally got to meet Ben (he’s lovely). We now know SHE’S HAVING A GIRL!!!!!! (squeals of joy).
Supporting our Colleen and her little bun in the oven.
This beauty (below) who let me join her kickball team called Pitch, Please! I played one game but I loved it.
Make them say “Pitch, Please!”
After my first and only kickball game I got to meet this dog who LOOKS LIKE A NOVA SCOTIA DUCK TOLLING RETRIEVER!!!! (That would be the THIRD that I’ve met, for those of us keeping track) The owner wasn’t actually sure what his breed was but I ACTED ACCORDINGLY AND TREATED THIS ANGLE WITH THE REVERENCE AND HONOR HE DESERVED!
Love at first bark. He didn’t bark though, so….
Some family time:
Aunt Betsy and Uncle Marvin visit at Findley Lake.
Nature + Family = Great Photo Opp
We went to visit the SUPER INTERESTING National Comedy Center in Jamestown, NY. I’d recommend it. Afterwards we had a delicious family dinner with only a little bit of plastic in my (comped) meal.
National Comedy Center!!
Sportin’ my new, souvenir t-shirt, thanks mom!
My parents came to visit me in Pittsburgh and we got to spend some family time at Aladdins ❤ ❤ ❤
The OG best friends.
And of course…summer parties 🙂 I went to the:
New most memorable Labor Day celebration I’ve ever been to. It was a Nolan’s party, which are SO MUCH FUN! And then afterwards, Bel and I went stargazing (and laughing) with Sarah, Mindy, Emily, and Kevin.
The graveyard for a surprisingly playful day.
Don’t trip on any of those headstones, you two.
SOUP PARTY, thrown by Emily T. There was SO much good soup, and we also got to dress in costumes for Halloween. SOUP-er fun!
The soup party. Not pictured: The soup.
Ian’s Super Soft Birthday Party, complete with a cupcake making station!
Cupcake party! Not pictured: Any of the attendees.
Trick or Treat!
And I know I don’t need to say it, the pictures will do most of the talking, here’s the goods. I mean, the food.
A delicious vegan meal from Apteka. My first.
You never forget your first Apteka.
A dream flat meal that I took extra care to plate. One of those omelets is dairy free and the other one actually looks like an omelet.
Victoria has taught me well.
Roasted veggies that Katie Barbaro taught us how to make! We were resistant at first but now….THIS IS HOW WE DO!
Not pictured: Katie. Or the vegetables.
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST….
Helen had her BIGGEST GIG TO DATE! On October 3rd, she opened for CAMERON ESPOSITO in a sold out show WITH A LINE AROUND THE BLOCK!!! I COULDN’T BE PROUDER!!!!
From V: BIG flowers for a BIG show!
Glimpsessssss. (That’s Katie B.’s shirt on me ON HELEN’S BIG DAY!)
Earlier that week we had gone to to the venue (The Rex Theatre) to suss out things and to see Addi sing.
Anna C. Riley made some SUPER cool, notebook sized stickers to try to help woo Helen some of those sweet, sweet Cameron fans!
I want to bumper sticker my car! HOW CUTE ARE THESE?!!!
Cameron and Helen in an Espi-tweeto.
Cameron loved Helen so much (how could she not?!), that she invited her to perform at another show IN ANOTHER TOWN as her opener the following night!!!!!!! And that is how OUR HELEN went about on a mini tour with THE Cameron Esposito!!!
Is she famous now?
Outside of the venue, pre show, with names you don’t often see together on a billboard.
I’m “falling” onto cloud nine from (late) summertime, ‘mi
Colombia has become an increasingly popular travel destination (it’s gorgeous), and my LLF, Patrick, had highly recommended it. While there, I made a bilingual pun that, while isn’t good, I will immortalize in writing: Colobienbienbien. This post is long. And plans to impart some travel knowledge to help you plan a trip to Colombia. If you don’t want the knowledge then just skim through the subsequent text and pictures and it’ll practically be like you traveled there yourself (only in a way more cost effective way).
I visited Colombia in October. AKA the rainy season. This is the very first country that I have ever been to where not having all of my vaccinations restricted where I could go. The very.first.one. That blew my mind because here is a link to a list of all of the countries that I’ve been to (spoiler: at the time of this writing there were over 50). And would you believe that not a single one required proof of vaccinations??! So I was a bit surprised when, because I didn’t have my yellow fever vaccine, I wasn’t allowed to travel to certain regions in Colombia. This ended up being (probably) for the best, since, as I mentioned, it was rainy season and, full disclosure, I also wasn’t taking malaria medication….
Tip numero uno…
Get your yellow fever vaccination.
I got mine less than one week after returning home from said Colombia trip at the Allegheny Health Department (sick shout out! Not, like, literally sick though) and learned that the yellow fever vaccination is good for a lifetime. I repeat, A LIFETIME.
I turned to my nurse and said “Whhhaaaat! That’s so cool! What other vaccinations do you guys do over here?!” She said “Hep A, Hep B, Tdap, Typhoid” I said “I’LL TAKE THEM ALL, PLEASE! But not now.” So, look out for updates on that in future blog posts. For now, I received the yellow fever vaccination which, I’ll repeat, is good for a lifetime.
Without that vaccination, in Colombia, I wasn’t allowed to visit:
Crystal Canyon
Minca
Southern region of the Amazon
Those places are saved in my maps.me for the next Colombian excursion. I was, however, able to go to other places in this gorgeous Spanish speaking country. Here they are in the order that I visited:
Bogota
Pereira
Filandia
Salento
Cartagena
Medellin
A very full itinerary with three different in-country flights.
One great thing about Colombia is that flying around, by US standards, is very reasonable and affordable. Most of my flights (domestically) were about $40 USD and purchased the night before departure.
There were cheaper flights listed but to buy them online you needed 1. to buy them in advance (duh) or 2. to be using a local credit card or bank. This last point was frustrating because 1. I wanted to spend less money and 2. I (still) kept trying to buy plane tickets from these websites and going through the entire process multiple times to buy a plane ticket from a website and then being told no takes awhile.
And yet, as always, my experience in these moments made me grateful that the money I make is in US currency and that our economy is so strong. In Colombia, the monthly wages are equivalent to $246 USD. It really matters what country and circumstances you’re born into and it can be (seemingly) impossible to get out of.
So, because of my circumstances (and limited time) I chose to buy $40 plane ticket (for a one hour flight) and not a $10 bus ride (for ten hours on a bus). The flights themselves were mostly not full (it being rainy season and locals not being able to afford them), and I went back and forth to different airports multiple times.
Tip numero dos….
2. Exchange your money at the airport.
We found it really complicated to exchange our money in Colombia, and credit cards are virtually not accepted. That being said, I highly recommend exchanging your USD to Colombian pesos at the airport. I found that to be the best deal.
Now, you’re probably like “Who is this we you’ve started throwing in?” Let me introduce Dom, a French speaking Canadian. The two of us met on CouchSurfing in Pittsburgh during PRIDE (see this post where his photo first appears). We had gotten along well in June, kept in touch, and decided to travel together in October. I picked the country. Dom has quite an interesting travel style: He’s not a planner, he literally buys his international plane tickets the night before a trip (and yes, that does make the price more expensive). He like to go with the flow and if it weren’t for me we wouldn’t have known where we were staying the first night we landed! I’d never traveled with someone quite like this before, and I was super excited for the new experience.
Repping Montreal and Pittsburgh — but switched.
It’s really fun to travel to a country where your own currency can go so far. When we arrived in Bogota, which, mind you, is a HUGE city, a 35 minute Uber ride cost us $7.35 USD. We dropped off our stuff that afternoon (at a great airbnb) and went out to try some street food…
Tip numero tres….
Eat on the streets.
Again, the USD is incredibly strong in Colombia, so our money went a long way, especially when it came to street food. There was a bunch of stuff– meats on sticks, liver, drinks called “aromatic”, fruits (ginips– YUM), and grilled food. I’ll be honest — everything we ate on that first night was just okay. So this is tip number three due to cost efficiency. We weren’t really wowed. We ate rice-milk type things, homemade popsicles, and everything and anything we wanted. For dessert, Dom wanted to keep to his travel tradition (which he does in every country) and go to McDonald’s. We ended up getting Mcflurries, which, in Colombia, was really just ice cream with m&m’s sprinkled on top — still good, but not a McFlurry. Who knows, maybe their “machine was broken,” an excuse that transcends borders. Funny thing is, our food from McDonald’s ended up being one of the most expensive meals we ate the entire time in Colombia at a whopping $8-13.
Busy-city Bogota.
Grilled corn on the cob.
It was Sunday, so by 8pm, everything was closing up. And quickly. We noticed a lot of people–men, women, and children– sleeping on the streets, wrapping themselves and the stuff they were selling in blankets. As it got later (8:30pm), an alarming military and police presence was growing in the streets. This scared me so I insisted we head back to our Airbnb. Dom wanted to stick around to see what it was all about, but I refused. I told him that he could go back out after he dropped me off, but by the time we got back to the Airbnb, his curiosity had subsided. During various encounters we had with locals later on in the trip, I asked what could’ve been going on that night. None of the students (they are so good at english) or locals we talked to knew, but the general consensus was that it was smart that we got away from them. We’ll call this tip number 3.5: Use caution and go with your gut. The next day, we woke up early and went to “climb” up to the best view in Bogota (it was less of a hike and more of just stairs). This staircase was hard. It was 2,350 meters up– great exercise, no doubt, but we rode the funicular down. After our “hike”, we had breakfast — eggs (yum), freshly squeezed orange juice, and something wrapped in a banana leaf that felt like I was opening up a present — and headed out on our graffiti tour.
Birds-eye-view Bogota.
It’s was very sunny.
Our art-tour-guide.
I do think that the graffiti tour would’ve been a lot more special if either Dom or I had appreciated art but since there were more pressing matters at hand (i.e., we could barely understand anyone), we dipped out early to go to Claro and get a SIM card. If you’ve never bought a SIM card in another country sometimes it is an absolute pleasure (I’m looking at you, Asia) and sometimes it is medium hard (Colombia) and sometimes it is darn near impossible (Isreal). Luckily, Colombia wasn’t as bad as Israel, but it was a process. Claro is a huge store with long lines and computers; they don’t take credit cards, and their cash-only payment system is very confusing and located on the opposite side of the store. But because we knew this might take some time, and because we were so determined to succeed, we had allotted half a day to do this and got our SIM cards pretty painlessly. Then just like that, we had translators on our phones! Muy bien!!
Not many people (in my experience) in Colombia speak English (except, like I said, a few of the students). Not even basic things. So I’m pretty sure my Spanish improved. I mean it must have, right?! And I was really inspired while I was there to, if I ever come back, settle in one city for a month or 2 and take language classes. NOTE TO SELF: Medallion would be a great place to learn.
After getting the SIM cards, we went back to our airbnb and booked a ticket Dom-style (i.e., the day of) to Pereira. To be honest, it was pretty exciting to purchase a plane ticket the exact day I was going to use it– and I was lucky to be trying out this travel style in a country where the domestic flights weren’t very expensive (even the last-minute tickets). Dom consolidated his bags and gave our host some maple syrup he brought from Canada as a gift (Canadians are SO nice), and we were off.
Get to Bogota Airport early
Bogota is a big and busy city, and there can be LOTS of traffic heading to the airport. I recommend leaving plenty of time to get there. If you get there too early, they have these INCREDIBLE ice cream cones hand-dipped in amazing chocolate, so I would just hang out and eat one (or three) of those.
At this point in my trip, it was clear that Colombians were SO nice and helpful. When we landed, the taxi driver (a notoriously corrupt line of work) who drove us to our Airbnb in the middle of the night in Pereira was super nice, and our host met us out on the street to make sure we had made it ok. I was relieved to be out of Bogota and in a smaller city, which definitely was more in-line with the vibe I was looking for.
The plane we booked last minute!
Us in blue dot form.
Morning, sunshine!
We woke up to a beautiful view in the morning and headed out to explore. Walking down the street, we were greeted by so many DELICIOUS smells — the freshest fruits with lots of variety and sweet, sweet coffee sold cheaply everywhere on the street in tiny quantities. Like barely bigger than a shot glass. Of course, I personally didn’t have many sips of that coffee but I did have lots of sniffs.
5. EAT THE FRUIT
The soundtrack to our daytime stroll.
SO. MUCH. FRUIT. Note my favorite — the mangostein
What’s this??
Also note: Keeping my favorite, precious fruit on my lap.
It’s called chirimoya and is sort of like a dragon fruit.
After exploring for a bit we took a taxi to the bus terminal and bought a ticket to Filandia for lunch. Money wise, the best value for lunch is called “the executive lunch’ and they always come with soup, a starch, a bit of “salad”, and a protein.
Rolling hills in Filandia.
So many COLORS.
6. To save money, order the executive lunch.
Here’s an example of what one looks like…
Dom ordering another meal probably called the Hungry Hombre
More food talk.
At some point, Dom was craving some Western-style food and I was craving some vegetables so we headed to a “Western” restaurant. I got this crepe, which wasn’t that good but at least I got a leaf of lettuce (pre romaine trying to kill you).
*some veggies.
After Filandia, we continued on to Salento, which ended up being my favorite town of the trip (where we got the veggies pictured above). It was rainy (probably because it was rainy season), and we stopped to get a view from the top of the town. Meanwhile, I ordered this delicious hot drink (that cost thats than $1USD) to keep me warm (ok, fine, I got it for the nutella).
Nutella on the top. Nutella on the BOTTOM.
View from the highest point in town.
Rainy streets didn’t keep us from exploring!
We stayed in a private room at a hostel that was advertised on Airbnb and got great instructions from the owner as to how to go on a long (6 hour; 12km) hike the next day. We were really excited to get an early start but woke up to the sound of rain literally POUNDING down on the zinc roof. We decided to get a few more hours of sleep until it sounded like the rain had lightened up. When this happened, we headed to a Willy (jeep), which would drive us into the rain clouds to the beginning of the challenging 12km hike.
7. Ride on the back of a jeep.
Free willy!! Just kidding, they weren’t free.
Riding (safely) on the back of the jeep.
Once we were dropped off, our host had instructed us to look for a “puerto azul” (blue door) which was really a fence and after a 15 minute false start in the wrong direction Dom and I were on our way!
8. Take this hike past Salento and don’t walk past the blue fence!
We paid the small park entrance fee and crossed 9 wooden bridges (one person at a time because a few did seem…er…precarious).
Dangerous bridge over running water pt.1
Dangerous bridge over running water pt.2
You get the jist…
We hiked for several hours before finally reaching Acaime, a hummingbird refuge. We paid another small entrance fee there 7.5 the fee is worth the entrance and received a cup of hot coco (sans nutella) and saw a kuatis!
Cutie kuati.
Adorbs.
Hummingbirds enjoying some sugar water while we were enjoying our sugar (chocolate) water.
Preciousness.
Feeling refreshed from the cocoa and the adorable wildlife, we backtracked for a while (which was always the plan) and then climbed up more to get some great exercise before heading down for a final descent into the Valley de Cocora, the main event. And main event, it was. These trees are something straight out of The Lorax; they’re called wax palms and are the national tree of Colombia. They looked so surreal and gorgeous in this otherwise treeless landscape.
When the Snapchat filter matches your real location.
Luscious green landscapes.
Bonafide tree-hugger.
Quick survey: painting or real?
Lorax Sammi, working up a sweat.
Not all who wander are lost…thanks to direction sign posts.
The kind of smile only nature can provide.
From The Lorax to Alice in Wonderland.
The whole hike took us about 5.5 hours, and as you can imagine, when we finally got back to a Willy and into Salento, we. were. famished. So, seeing as though Salento is known for their trout, I rewarded myself with a trout dinner that only cost $7.25.
8. Eat Trout in Salento.
Next time you find yourself on a strenuous hike, don’t TROUT yourself– you can DO IT.
The next day, we headed back to Pereira. We were meant to go to the airport there, called Armenia, which is the actual name of the airport in Colombia! (Fairly confusing and potentially disastrous when searching SkyScanner for flights).
Gorgeous town square.
When we got to Armenia — the one in Colombia — we got on a bus and then on another bus, past Pereira to some hot springs we had heard about where we then hopped on another Willy, and the scenery became STUNNING. We got to the natural hot springs (there were two options, but we sprung [hehe, get it?] to go to the farther one in San Vincente, which was incredible
9. Go to the hot springs in San Vincente.
Along with the hot springs, there were waterfalls, and a literal hot river.
Oh the places you’ll go in Colombia.
Forget the song; go chase waterfalls.
Natures TLC.
The hot spring trip lasted about four hours. And it WASN’T ENOUGH TIME. But we had to keep up with our Colombian itinerary, and alas, we had another plane to catch. This time, we were off to Cartagena!
When we got to Cartagena, we did more exploring, making our way to the Old City, the Walled City, San Francisco, and beyond.
10. Go to places this colorful.
Flower market.
I spy with my little eye something yellow.
Dom didn’t raise that Canadian flag– it was already there.
The center of Cartagena was beautiful, and it was a nice change from where we had been. It was less rainy, way more humid and much, much warmer, which made exploring the streets more muggy. We soaked in all of the bright colors of the buildings as best as we could. And, as we were walking, we found a tiny local bar, which I loved, because it was somewhere the locals actually went (and also liked). They had wifi and cold drinks — I ordered a CosteNita, which is a super tiny beer. So maybe I ordered another.
Hangin’ with the locals.
Fruit man instead of the ice cream man.
We walked all the way to the beach part of town and admired fisherman bringing in their hauls for the day. Watching people buy fish directly from the fisherman not only made my stomach rumble but also inspired me to eat fish again in this part of the country.
The daily catch.
Definitely FISHING for compliments on this food photography.
While we hung around the beach area during lunch, we made friends with a group of students who were selling popsicles. We asked them why, and they told us that they were trying to raise enough money to travel around Colombia by bus. We OBVIOUSLY donated to the cause, excited to see young, adventurous travelers trying to find a way. Dom and I hung out with them for a while and took pictures at sunset.
Young Colombian travelers and friends ❤
Photo credit DOM
Cartagena at sunset.
Maybe it was the fact that it was getting hotter outside, or the spontaneous nature of Doms personality….. but as we passed a barbershop Dom decided it was a good time get his beard trimmed. I couldn’t have agreed more. In fact, that’s tip numero 11….
11. Get your beard trimmed in Colombia.
It was a great experience– they did a really fabulous job, and I got to chill with a beer during the process.
Definitely recommend this as an activity in Colombia… you know, if you have a beard
12. Also recommended: chilling with a beer while your travel partner gets his beard cut.
Cartagena loves color.
Dom and I stayed in Cartagena for the night. If we had gotten to stay longer in Colombia, we probably would have gone to an island or –if either of us had gotten our yellow fever vaccines beforehand, Minca (Oh Minca, so sad to have missed you). Since we didn’t though, Dom and I chose Medellin as our last and final Colombian city. We headed there the next day.
————-
During our stay in Medellin, Dom and I stayed with a local host family who was incredibly kind and didn’t speak any English. Which was actually great for my Spanish, and sidenote, as I said before, it would’ve been a GREAT place to do so.
Tip number 13…
13. If you have the time or are able stay for a month or two, take a Spanish class!
Anyway, we settled in at our hosts’ house, and for lunch, we found a modern, but traditional dish right across the street from our homestay.
Delicioso.
After eating, we walked around the city, stumbled upon some live music in a park, danced, walked across a bridge, and found ourselves in (yet another) park with stunning city views.
Anyone up for a game of checkers on this thing?
🎶Dancin’ in the street! 🎶
Beautiful rolling hills.
Views on views.
Crossing cultural bridges… or just regular bridges. Pittsburgh, is that you?
Birds as colourful as the houses.
Neat-ure.
We ended up in the fancy (read: touristic) part of Medallian. It’s one of those places where it’s touristy for good reason because it was CHARMING!
Dom and I picked a restaurant that had local vibes so as not to be too touristy, but still hang in the area, drink some ClubColombia El Dorada, and appreciate the good vibes.
Local restaurant in a touristic area.
It was around Halloween and I decided to buy a shirt, dressing myself up as a Colombian futbal player.
We enjoyed Medellin, seeing this city transform from day to night. Dom had to leave first thing in the morning, but I had one more full day on my own, which I decided to use to practice more of my Spanish with my lovely hosts.
After Dom’s departure, I decided to take my new friend, Jose Luis, out to lunch. I told him to pick anywhere— his favorite place! He asked, “Anywhere?” And I was like, “Yup, your favorite restaurant.” So we started walking, and something must have gotten lost in translation because I was expecting a local place with some really great, traditional, fresh cuisine, but we ended up here:
Eat fresh, I guess.
I stifled a laugh, but I had said anywhere. We ate Subway, and it was good, he was right. We even got a sandwich to go..
Jose Luis was pretty happy.
After lunch, Jose’s mother joined us. We walked around the city, went to some botanical gardens, and happened upon a small festival (not to be confused with a carnival) along the way. Muy divertido!
A family affair.
My gracious hosts!
I enjoyed the day with them and had a really great time practicing my Spanish. After we got back to *our apartment, I put my Halloween costume to good use and went to a futbol game– Medellin vs. Bucaramanga. I met up with a group of gringos outside the game waiting for it to start. There was no drinking inside the stadium (smart), but we had hours before the game to hang out, paint our faces, and talk before the game started. It was such a beautiful night!
When it was game time, we took our seats in the stadium — I was sitting right next to a sign that said “Always home field advantage!” There was SO much energy in the stadium throughout the entire game, the spectators would randomly clap at different rhythms (and as someone with no rhythm, I really got into it).
Whistles were boooooos. My one faux pas? Everyone in the entire stadium was wearing red, and my Halloween costume was yellow. Whoops. The good news was that the opponents weren’t wearing yellow either…
Ole, Ole Ole Ole!!
Gringos y gringa.
We had such a great time!! I was enjoying hanging out with these gringos, and we all seemed to get along well, except for a girl in the group who couldn’t be bothered (her name was Molly). As the game went on, there was an escalation of celebration — we were jumping, screaming, clapping — SO MUCH EXERCISE, we probably got as much cardio in as the futbol players. I LOVE IT. Straight up burning calories. The whole stadium was shaking. The game went into overtime, and luckily, Medellin ended up winning. It was DEFINITELY an experience of a lifetime to be at that game and by far the best sports game I’ve ever, ever experienced.
Los gringos!!
In a sea of red, be a yellow.
What a FANTASTIC last night in Medellin. I reflected on my time in Colombia as I headed back “home” in a (super cheap) Uber– Medellin at night was so lit up, it looked like a twinkling night sky. Gorgeous. The next day, I went to the airport with dreams of coming back, with a yellow fever vaccination.
At the airport, I took inventory of my funds.
Note: I’d spent about $33USD a day. This included Airbnbs and domestic flights.
It was a glorious, rainy early morning. Kevin and I parked in 9F (we reviewed this so many times that I still remember) and I practically (okay, I did) spun my way inside of the airport. THIS WAS SO EXCITING!!! We relaxed in the lounge until the last possible second — “Go big or go home”, they say… and we weren’t going home because we hadpractically just gotten to the airport. — As we ran to the gate we heard our names over the loud speaker. Perfect timing. WE WERE ON OUR WAY TO TEXAS!!!!!!! ….with a not-so-quick layover in Atlanta.
The first flight went well. But as we headed to our gate for the second flight we couldn’t help but notice the board said “New Orleans”. Huh? Is this plane going to New Orleans?! Everyone in the boarding area was just as confused as we were, but then the announcer came over the loudspeaker and cleared everything up… Flight 4099 has been canceled. CANCELED, Y’ALL. Not delayed, but full-on canceled at the exact moment we were supposed to be boarding.
Kevin and I looked at each other and I started laughing so hard I teared up. WHAT. After waiting in line, getting out of line, and waiting in line again, we finally talked to a representative who gave us a couple of options. The best one was (not to take a plane back to Ohio but rather) to stay in Atlanta for eight hours and then catch the 6pm flight to Dallas. The flight itself was going to take longer than usual due to weather and needing to be rerouted. We were just hoping it wasn’t going to get canceled altogether…again. We snacked on the veggies I’d brought from home as we took the metro into the heart of Georgia. We interacted with a lovely metro-station attendant who helped us buy our tickets. So far this trip was so fun (!) and had us on a plane, surfing on the airplane train, and now on an actual train.
And thus, our weekend in Dallas began in Atlanta. What are you supposed to do in Hotlanta (but actually Coldlanta at the early hour we got there) in the morning after a canceled flight? We choose the traditional route… an Israeli breakfast.
Shakshuka– traditional Atlanta cuisine?
After our shakshuka that left me #shook because it was amazing, we left to do some more exploring and stumbled into Piedmont Park and Atlanta’s gay pride festival. Now normally, in Pittsburgh, we don’t stumble upon Pride; we joyfully anticipate Pride; we prepare for Pride. And not knowing about Pride in Atlanta, as Kevin simply put it, we showed up “looking like squares.” No sequins, no bright colors, no tutus, no rainbows all over our bodies….it was a shame. We did our best to make ourselves as visually PRIDEFUL as possible (although, to be clear, we wear Pride in our hearts ALL THE TIME) and picked up some sweet, sweet swag.
Stickers and beads — quick! Blend in!
We continued to walk around Piedmont Park in our make-shift Pride gear, but, as the day wore on it became clear that not being covered in sparkles and colorful garb wasn’t our only fashion faux pas. Turns out that Coldlanta really does turn into Hotlanta in the afternoon. IT WAS SO HOT, and Kevin really regretted not bringing a pair of shorts — but hey, in his defense, we most definitely thought we’d be in Dallas at that very moment where the temperature was much lower.
We stumbled upon these hot clear balls full of, what turned out to be, good exercise and great fun. We signed up, got a running start, rolled around, built up more of a sweat, and emerged laughing and giggly. I mean….Do I use this as an accessory for the furries next year?
Human hamster balls.
After ditching our balls, we left the park and settled on a new pair of wheels…one we’d seen all around town. Scooters!
We’ll just leave these here for the professionals.
….We totally underestimated this thing. Honestly, Lime scooters are a great idea, but neither of us possessed the talent to do the “full” (er…1/12) Atlanta city tour that we had dreamed. We weren’t skilled enough to turn our heads when we were in the wrong lane. Cost wise, it was efficient but for us but that’s where the efficiency ended. Wanna know how far we shakily got? See below.
The Lime scooter challenge: Last longer than 11 minutes.
So instead of scootering, we decided to walk around the city. We saw some sights (including a web MD office) and took the long way (not the pretty way) to the puppet museum. You know, for variety’s sake.
Once our 8 hours in Atlanta were over, we headed back to the airport, gave our extra metro passes away, caught our flight, and had some snacks: we split a sample-size Laura bar, a nectarine, and a tiny bag of pretzels. Not a Texas sized meal, but then again, we weren’t in Texas yet. We still felt hungry and had enough time to RUN into the Atlanta lounge where we picked up some much needed fuel.
Kevin kept reminding me that our vacaion hadn’t started yet. “Vacation doesn’t start until we get to Dallas.” Great news!
And we finally did it, we made it to Texas 🙂 All smooth sailing from there, right? Oops. I booked the rental car from the wrong airport. Sigh. What a novice mistake and meant even more time between us and downtown Fort Worth. We sleepily brainstormed, problem solved, and eventually figured it out. We headed out on the town and saw some of Fort Worth… at least the part that we likened to Pittsburgh’s Southside. Here it is:
So different at night and during the day.
We couldn’t bring ourselves to party in Fort Worth. We’d given Atlanta our all and…well, we had seen Fort Worth at night. That was all we could muster until the next morning when it felt like we’d hit a RESET button. A new day that I got to start with a Texas steak.
Chom chomp chomp.
After we were finished breakfast, we decided to hang around a bit and see what this place had to offer.
We found a great cattle drive — which is most definitely not a cattle parade, mind you. After watching the cattle parade down the street during the cattle drive, we headed towards Billy Bob’s (a bar) that you had to pay to enter. Once paying, finding no one inside (including a bartender who would serve us), we decided to just head out and go to Dallas. Or, more specifically, the Texas State Fair (in Dallas). But not before we rode a mechanical bull, walked all around town, played ski-ball at the White Elephant, and got a life-saving coffee at one of the places I had marked on the map.
Not a cattle parade
Ok…so, The Texas State Fair is, by far, the best state fair that I’ve ever been to. To be honest, I haven’t been to many but, THIS ONE WAS SO GOOD! If I ever make a Superlatives blog, this State Fair will be featured. It started off extra promising when we found FREE street parking. Doesn’t sound like a big deal, but we were stoked!
The way this fair worked was that we bought a certain amount of tickets, and then we paid for everything in the fair with the tickets. Each ticket cost $.50 and there were SO MANY GOOD DEALS. Everything was reasonably priced — for example, water was two tickets ($1) and beer cost six tickets ($3).
Giant Cowboy (that moved!)
So I promise that the fair wasn’t only cool because it was economical (although, again, IT WAS!). It also had soooo many games, a sky tram, talks about milking and farming AND AN ODDITIES TENT (so cool) where we saw a LIVE TWO-HEADED SNAKE. I repeat. A LIVE two-headed snake!! (I added the repetition there for 1. Each head and 2. Dramatic effect).
We also saw a two-headed stuffed piglet and conjoined turtles with many legs, but the snake was by far one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen. I’d never seen anything like it before. A LIVE TWO HEADED RATTLE SNAKE! Both heads had tongues that flickered out to ‘smell’ the air. It was alive for sure! We kept going back to look at it; there were no pictures allowed inside the tent.
4 coupons is $2. And this is the only photo of the two headed snake I could get.
They also had regular, one-headed animals, which were fun to check out. Including piglets and snakes. Not kept in the same tent. We went to the snake area (of the one-headed variety), and Kevin let me gush about my old pet snake, Namastay (RIP). It was so thoughtful and nice of him to inquire about her so sincerely.
Remembering Namaste.
Other one headed animals included dogs and cats and birds doing amazing tricks like making doors open and flags fly and a separate petting area where we got to pet and feed this zebra…
Kevin, aware of the top AND bottom teeth.
The atmosphere was just so lively and fun. It was a completely different vibe from Fort Worth, and we were both so glad to be there. Not only did we indulge in the animal oddities, but we also indulged in food and beer. We were really surprised that in the land of food-with-lots-of-butter and oversized portions that we found HEALTHY food sans butter (but still in oversized portions) like this mango:
Mango as tall as that guy in the background.
The mango above was SO juicy and SO good. It might be the best mango that I’ve ever had and I’ve lived in the Caribbean #credentials The best mango I’ve ever had was on a stick, at a fair, in Texas. This fairs fare was more than fair…it was remarkable!
Don’t worry, it wasn’t all vegan and all natural, they also had healthy (?) fried food, like the fried avocado (still dairy free). The beer choices were also super unique like this corndog beer (pictured below) and the cotton candy beer (not pictured and also not very good):
Side of mustard.
After all of the mishaps we’d had earlier on in the trip, everything went according to plan. Even the weather behaved for us!! It was supposed to rain all weekend, and during our day at the fair the weather was great! It did start raining at night — actually pouring — but not before we were able to ride the huge Ferris Wheel. We ran back to the car soaking wet (which somehow made running more bearable and fun). It was a super successful day.
Not mad about it!
Happily, our artistic Airbnb was close by and we went to dry off.
The next day, the weather took a turn for the worse and added cold-wind to the rainy mix. So, we decided to do a self-guided driving tour around the city. We drove around downtown, saw sculpture gardens and parks (just from a distance, no need to get out in that really cold rain…brrr!), cool buildings, graffiti, Dealey Plaza where JFK was assassinated, and a suspension bridge that we circled and ultimatly crossed.
Chasing bridges.
For lunch, we had been planning to check out this raw restaurant that I’d been eager to go to. It was near the airport, perfect location for our final meal; but when we pulled up, all the lights were off, and it looked very, very closed. I was short of devastated, but Kevin, the hero, decided to go outside in the freezing rain and check the doors to see if he could get inside. AND IT WAS OPEN!!!! So glad he checked (thanks, Kevin!). It turns out the lights were off because the power had gone out — but luckily we had picked a raw restaurant and they don’t need to cook anything so it didn’t really matter. YAY!!!
I WAS ECSTATIC!!!!!!! And may have over ordered although I loved it all and don’t regret a single dish.
Raw sushi… but like, not the regular raw kind.
Delicious food you don’t even need to cook. These two dishes were the best; raw enchiladas and avocado “toast”.
So after eating this healthy, invigorating meal, and taking some to go, we headed back to the airport. We had what we thought would be a cushy two hours once we landed before Kevin had to be at Arcade for the Improv 101 Class Show that he taught but, in fashion with the earlier parts of this trip, our flight kept getting delayed. We looked at the weather. It was warmer and drier in Pittsburgh than it was in Dallas and we held out hope that we were going to make it to the theatre on time. And we did! With 15 minutes to spare, Kevin showed up at Arcade before his class successfully took the stage to preform.
So, not only did I get to begin my Dallas vacation in Atlanta, but I got to end it cracking up to comedy in Pittsburgh.
After our trip to Baltimore, Katie CAME BACK TO PITTSBURGH WITH US!!!!!! On our first night back, we snuggled in my bed and got to know Victoria better 🙂
Friends are for snuggling, laughing until you cry, actually crying, practicing for the school of hard talks, and holding each other (literally and) to a standard of rigorous honesty.
We had such an amazing time talking and turning downtime into uptime (let’s not slander ‘mi), but I’d like to use this blog post to talk mostly about how FOOD connected us in such a solid way.
Let me formally introduce Victoria, my new favorite foodie.
Here she is with Katie who loves superlatives and is also my FAVORITE.
Victoria is not only an amazing human but she also knows everything you need to know about food (and more) like … how to make it look INCREDIBLE. And how to break a yolk properly.. She works for Table magazine and invited Katie to participate in the winter issue! Oats prepared three different ways, coming at you November 2018! Victoria described Katie as a “high-energy creative who planned an on-brand spread in just a few hours!” They wrote an article and had a photo shoot! All of my food pictures from here on out should reflect everything we (collective knowledge) learned.
I mean… come on. Food that looks as good as it tastes!
Our time turned into:
You get invited to participate in ONE food magazine, and suddenly everyone’s a photographer…
Please take note of the three matching white pumpkins, which Victoria got for Helen, Katie, and I because — BEST FRIENDS, BESTFRIENDS, BEST FRIENDS!
Katie showing me how it’s done with an Onion Fritata! This PILLAR is moving food!
One of Victoria’s most impressive techniques was putting the food on the floor in order to get a stunning photo. OK, Victoria…
Respect the process.
But then, of course, even after any lingering (do you have to!) doubt, the picture ended up looking like this:
SHE WAS SO RIGHT… #getaflaw
So now that Victoria has become a part of our lives, I’m more obsessed with food pictures than I’ve ever been. Sorry not sorry, mum.
Victoria invited us to her gorgeous house for a dinner party (thank you!!!) where we had nacho night and enthralling conversations about tattoo deliberations and boyfriend MANifestiations (hehe, get it?). Thank you to Katie for illustrating both.
Dinner party nacho night — we all took a photo from different angles but I won’t bore you by posting all four. “Maybe we should put it on the floor?!” – Katie proving she’s the fastest learner of us all. Those skull plants got to come home with us!
One day, Victoria gave us complimentary tickets to the Pittsburgh Pierogi Fest to eat our weight in píerogis. Helen and I had made ourselves dairy-free the night before which helped limit our options. Dairy-free month day one. “Does Auntie Anne’s have butter in it?” “Of course it does!” Helen snapped after first going to check and having her heart broken. #hurtpeoplehurtpeople We met up with Sarah, Randy, Andy, Patrick, Victoria, and a new friend, Madeline. We spent most of the day riding roller coasters (okay one, the Thunderbolt) since the pierogi lines were long and we opted not to get our faces painted like a pierogi. I may or may not be (definitely am not) into roller coasters and was fretting before I got on the Thunderbolt. Sarah eased my nerves so patiently and Helen got out of having to actually ride the ride (lucky). Helen just got to do the fun part, which is obviously waiting in line #friendship
Later, a group of us sat down and hung out, chatting, which was honestly the best part. We talked about how none of us had tattoos, which was crazy because we were travelers and since Katie had been planning on getting one that very morning.
Ready for pierogies! There’s a pocket inside Sarah’s jacket that I covet!
Not too long after the pierogi fest (but like… on a completely different day), KATIE AND HELEN GOT TO PERFORM TOGETHER. I REPEAT: KATIE AND HELEN PERFORMED TOGETHER. I repeated that because it happened not once BUT TWICE!!! And both times were incredible. We gathered up a group and headed out to see this magic unfold:
Katie+ Guitar + Jokes = Perfection
Helen + Microphone + Jokes = Perfection
Wee Emily and Tall Laura (also Bel and Bam – but you avid readers of the blog probably already know that!)
Before Friday’s show Victoria (and Katie) did the absolute cutest thing and made these amazing wristbands for Katie and Helen in support of their performance, which we all wore proudly — like a sign but a bracelet. You get it. Man, do I love matching! Emily and Laura were still wearing them when they went to the Steelers game the next day… even though Katie and Helen weren’t playing. But support from the two of them is endless!
Repping their favorite comedians while footballing.
Speaking of repping, Katie and I decided to rep our ears and hark back to the most wonderful time of the yEAR (hehe), aka the furries.
Eyes eyes, ears ears, tails tails, LEGS LEGS.
And after the Brillobox show night, we gathered an all-star team who came back to the house, and EVERYONE was given a pair of ears. Aawoooogah!! Victoria ordered us all an UNREAL spread of pizza, and I had the divine pleasure of reading the Letter from the Editor (written by our very own Victoria) in Table magazine’s fall issue OUT LOUD!
Pack storytime, we’re all ears!
Such a magnificent night where we had a lot to celebrate… so we celebrated like DOLPHINS! Goodness I love these girls.
Here are some more standouts from Katie’s hangout with us:
Are you sick of food yet? Me neither. Cafe du Jour with Emily, Laura, and Katie – all about that Roasted Pork Crostini (not pictured) and Watermelon Salad.
Katie and I had to take a quick walk– I’m talking an hour from the southside to the northside during rush hour. We stopped to split two slices of pizza twice because the first place only had one…and then we absolutely loved how even that felt so we did it again.
We saw A Simple Favor with VIP seating. We admired Blake, the sunset, and ate at Primanti brothers (om nom nom nom).
There were two laughter yoga sessions where we “won the lottery,” Katie almost peed her pants, and had some other realizations about bodily functions. “I feel downright mirthful!”
Katie and I recorded a podcast in Helen’s room!
Welcome to our podcast, “Helen’s Room.” JK that’s not what it’s called… it’s called Showing Up Messy! You should check it out!
I took Katie B. and all of her worldly possession on a scooter ride in the rain, but it was our favorite one yet because THE FUN IS IN THE RUSHING.
Pinksburgh is up and back in action!
We played a game of giant Uno with my best friends and I got them to dairy-free-fudge the rules. AND I got a lil somethin’ from mom & mom (wink)
We sat near each other talking, texting, and also Facebook-ing. ALL THE FORMS OF COMMUNICATION in the same room!!! #downtimeintouptime
Bel, I love Down Time.
Are we in London or Pittsburgh?!
Alas, before we knew it, it was time for Katie Barbaro to go off on her year-long international adventure, Iceland bound. She wrote us a note on our white board in the dream flat, which, even though she set us up for success by writing a matching, handwritten note – because SHE SEES US (sobs) – it will probably still never get erased.
Katie always leaves us notes on the whiteboard and we refused to erase them because KATIE WROTE THEM AND WE LOVE HER. This time, she did this. WE FELT SO SEEN.
One of the many pieces of wisdom Victoria gave us was that your best friends are glimpses of you. Not only did that make my heart explode into a million glittery pieces, it also makes perfect sense. To quote Victoria quoting Oprah quoting Maya Angelou: “You are a compilation of the five people with whom you spend the most time.” I have THE best glimpses, and I’m so lucky to call these girls my best friends… #stilltriggered.
Sammi and her glimpses… BEST FRIENDS, BEST FRIENDS, BEST FRIENDS!!!
Helen and I decided to go to Baltimore for fun one weekend and to meet Katie Barbaro (two bars and an o) before she went off on her year of solo travel (WOOHOO!). At the time we were planning this trip we didn’t know she was going to COME BACK WITH US TO PITSBURGH #wildplan But that story is for the next post…for now, Baltimore.
…or should I call it Balti-POURING DOWN RAIN! The 4 hour drive took us 5 because of the weather. It didn’t stop raining the entire weekend but LUCKILY we had designed this trip entirely around the National Aquarium — which is a Baltindoors activity, and most certainly not the last Baltimore pun that this triad of woman has come up with #foreshadowing
We checked into the Envy Hotel, whose name is definitely overcompensating for something. Maybe they were trying to use reverse psychology? — It was really anything but envious. Actually, I take that back. The room was extra shareable, which…you know, is something I love and something to be jealous about. For example, there was a bug in one of the beds (the other bugs, not that we saw any, were probably envious that this one bug got a whole bed to itself), so Helen and Katie shared a bed while I took the bug bed for myself that first night. We switched it up for night two because fair is fair. The bathroom handle was also broken, so you could see into the bathroom, which meant that we shared a lot of private moments together…and learned where other bathrooms in the hotel were located. Another few unique traits (questionably enviable) were that breakfast was served in the dank basement with instant coffee and that when you were in the lobby, you had to push the down button so that the elevator could come “down” to you. I mean, I guess that’s enviable for an up elevator– it’s way more work to go up than down, right? “They do things differently in Baltimore,” said Katie, as we headed past homeless people back into the pouring down rain in search of dinner.
A few enJOYneer best friends enJOYneering their best friend fun!
We ultimately picked an Afghani restaurant called the Helmand. It was DELICIOUS. It only took getting out of the hotel, out of the rain, and five bites into the meal to completely change my mind about Baltimore, this place was great!
Equal parts of everything. The pumpkin (bottom of the plate) was exceptional!
During dinner Katie and I learned that we didn’t like raisins, but by process of elimination. We ordered this delicious rice dish (to share, of course), and finished it all only to discover the one thing left in the bowl was the pile of raisins we had subconsciously ignored. Talk about passive aggraisins.
The “after” picture looks just like this, except everything else besides the raisins are gone.
We had a great time at the restaurant; our table was a share-table… like a potluck, but with feelings! While sharing at the share-table we discussed how amazing it was that we got to share it with THREE BEST FRIENDS. We’re each the best friend of our best friends, and it was just a whole best friend fest. We soon realized that “best friend” is our trigger word and sends our heart rates through the roof. BEST FRIENDS, BEST FRIENDS, BEST FRIENDS! For some added entertainment, we noticed a mouse scurry around the restaurant, but we weren’t bothered — it made me feel like I was a patron in Ratatouille. Spirits were high, the three of us had nothing to complain about.
A best friend and her best friend!
A best friend’s best friend; not pictured: their best friend.
Before the mouse sighting.
The mouse sighting caught in action.
Squeak squeak! We disQUEAKly told the manager so the restaurant would not get shut-down by Food and Safety. We didn’t want to be out in that rain either, mouse!
Giddy and HAPPY AS EVER the three BEST FRIENDS!!! (an exclamation point for each of us) headed back to the Envy Hotel to rest up for the next day.
Snug as the bug in the other bed.
The next morning, we headed to the aquarium at 9 AM, right as it opened, and put school kids on field trips to shame by staying there for a whopping SEVEN hours.
Good morning, Baltipouuuur!
We literally savoured each step we took, obviously, as we took seven hours to see the whole aquarium. In the beginning, Katie said something that really set the stage for the rest of our aquarium experience, and that was this:
“Wow. Life really imitates art! And by art I mean nature, which is really just life.”
I mean…truer words have never been spoken. And so we decided to actually watch art imitate life imitate nature by heading to two of the aquarium’s movies in 4D.
“4D?! Balti-MORE dimensions?!” – HW
We decided to see Shark and Being Dolphin (the titles did not leave us much room for guessing what these movies were about…but that was fine! We couldn’t wait!)
We learned a few things from these movies:
Kids do not like 4D depictions of marine life, which is actually hilarious.
These movies needed a content warning because they were definitely not relaxing.
Shark skin is as sharp as teeth. They cut with their skin just to see if people bleed (no, these aren’t Simple Plan lyrics; it’s real science). But sometimes people will think they’ve been bitten by a shark, when in reality, the shark just brushed up against them.
4D includes being sprayed by water and getting punched in the back. When that part of the movie took place, Helen leaned over and asked us if we just got shanked. This was Baltimore, after all. And yes, we all had. The kids in the audience screamed. Everyone watching the movie got punched in the back, that was supposed to be a positive feature, I guess. We renamed the film the Shark-shank Redemption.
After the movie, we explored balti-more of the aquarium. Here are some standouts:
Feeding time!!
Seahorsing around.
Peacock Mantis Shrimp. Andrew’s new fursona.
“That fish looks like it’s going as that rock for Halloween” — Helen
MesmeriSEAing
Showing off turtle shells.
Not in their natural habitat but still SO DARN PERFECT! Those bubbles!
Our favorite exhibit was the jellyfish one. We loved the way they moved so fluidly and just bounced around and hit the walls. We realized we had just never seen jellyfish before — “like, ever.”
Could there be any balti-more jellyfish in this aquarium?
Interpreting a jellyfish — Whiskers and Labia.
Matching phone screens 😉
Exploring an aquarium for seven hours is hard work, so for snack time (thanks, Katie!), we had a blue Clif Bar– yes, that’s the flavor– blue. And we split 2 clementines into 3. We just loved how fair that felt.
Besides the jellyfish, we were also drawn to the dolphins because, I mean…dolphins. After seeing the Being Dolphin 4D movie, we were thrilled to find out the aquarium has an open dolphin exhibit where trainers feed and play with dolphins all day. You’re welcome to stay in there as long as you want but every few hours, the trainers give a Dolphin Talk. We visited them multiple times and went to every dolphin talk they had. One of the coolest things we learned (and that is a LONG list of #dolphinfacts), is the dolphins will willingly give their tails so the doctors can draw blood. They are trained to do so and practice that pose every day so that when the doctors come for testing, the dolphins are not stressed out.
Dolphins are so smart, curious, and playful. Three of my favorite qualities. The trainers have a symbol that means the dolphin can swim out and do whatever trick it wants. When it comes back, the dolphin gets rewarded with big celebrations and cheering. The trainer then did the same symbol and the dolphin knew it meant to go out and do a different trick. The same symbol has multiple meanings — these animals are so advanced! They also had a symbol to say “swim around the perimeter of the tank and show me any 5 tricks you want, as long as you don’t repeat any!” DOLPHINS ARE SO SMART. They have to be constantly teaching the dolphins new tricks because they crave innovation and creativity. I’m not sure how we figured that out about dolphins but I’m glad we did! HUMANS ARE SMART, TOO!
DOLPHINS ALSO LOVE TO CELEBRATE!!! How cute is that?! Anytime they did a trick correctly, they would celebrate with their trainers! It was so full of joy and positive reinforcement. The trainers celebrate when they do something correctly and just ignore if they do something incorrectly so as to not reinforce the behavior. They said that works for children, too. #lifehack
The trainers told us that sometimes the dolphins play baseball with flavorless jello, to which Katie, without missing a beat, turned to us and asked:
“What’s a dolphin’s favorite flavor of jello? Trick question!! Flavorless!”
When we left the aquarium seven hours later (seriously – go to the Baltimore Aquarium and see the dolphin talks), the three of us wanted to get something matching so we scoured the gift shop for anything that called our names — it had to call all three names or else it was a bust. We ended up just using that magnificent picture of jellyfish (shown above #captionfacts) as matching phone screens, which is perfect, but we also got this great picture, which we wanted but didn’t want to pay $50 for.
A few puffins with special powers. WE, THOUGH. ❤ ❤ ❤
And since 1 Clif Bar + ⅓ of 2 clementines does NOT = a sufficient meal, we decided to head out for some food and have some more best friend time where we just constantly made each other laugh because we though.
“Helen: Sayer of words, mumbler of gems.” – Katie
Katie asking Helen on a best friend date. SHE SAID YES!
After we made the best use of Baltimore by going to see the aquarium and having dinner, we decided to balance it out by making the worst use of Baltimore and going to see an improv show, which apparently, in Baltimore stands for “Needs improvement.”
Couple celebrating their one year anniversary on stage. Happy one year, baby. #Badprov
Katie and Helen went up on stage as audience participants — they were my favorite part of the show.
“I need this 4th wall to get wayyyy thicker”– Katie
Moral support!
After sitting through some…some really ENVIABLE — there we go– improv, we decided to just leave early. After all, it wasn’t our town. We didn’t know these people (thank goodness). We could just leave right? Right. We left. After we left, we debriefed and wondered if we were clapping with them or at them. Like, how would we like it if someone came to our jobs and just started clapping at us? Our debrief was funnier than the actual improv #sorrynotsorry.
The next day, we got a delicious breakfast sans basement and decided to skip the trampolines and head home early, which is great because I love to stop.
Aquarium and food; the absolute best uses of Baltimore.
Sooooo good — also, no mouse sighting!
After breakfast, we got in the car and drove back to Pittsburgh. The 4-hour road trip took us 6 which I considered to be not bad at all. We also managed to go back in time when we stopped at a Burger King on the way home, and if you don’t believe me here’s proof (cameras still worked back then).
We let Katie drive.
We also stopped at an international market, and Katie and I realized it was the first time we had gone international together. Our destination? Goat cheese and caramel lollipops from Mexico.
There were also several realizations made on the way back home, which was a great way to turn our downtime in to up-time #always The first epiphany came when I realized, in real-time, that I was a quarter hoarder when we had to pay a toll. The first step is admitting you have a problem, and I did just that while making eye contact with Helen. I am a quarter hoarder.
The second realization came after we had made our last stop; Helen was driving (thanks for driving!), and she didn’t want to make any more stops (woe is me) so that we could get home on time to see Bonus Stage at Arcade Comedy Theater (good improv!). Helen noticed in the rearview mirror that Katie was getting her water from some grapes — something that dolphins do from ice-cubes or fish, by the way, because all mammals need fresh water! When she realized Katie was so thirsty that she had resorted to getting her water content from a grape, Helen agreed to stop because “I didn’t realize what a monster I was being!”
This Baltimore trip was definitely anything but a Balti-snore, we got to see everything that this city had to offer (and by “everything” I mean the massive aquarium.). And it really made me appreciate a couple of things. First: my gorgeous, beautiful, funny best friends who are the best best friends in the world. Second: Pittsburgh improv. Third: Dolphins.
A BEST FRIEND WITH HER BEST FRIEND AND HER BEST FRIEND’S BEST FRIEND, WHO IS ALSO HER BEST FRIEND #SOTRIGGERED
Burning Man is a world of its own. If you haven’t heard of this crazy, week-long event (held in the desert at the end of August), here is a definition to explain the wild pictures and crazy outfits that are in this post.
What Is Burning Man?
Burning Man takes the harsh (and ridiculously dusty) desert environment and pairs it with 70,000 people who are willing, excited, and inspired to temporarily live in said environment for a few weeks. They build radically interactive, COOL, BEAUTIFUL, GORGEOUS art (disclaimer: my pictures will not do it justice) and survive by building their own shelters, supplying their own food, water, clothing, transportation, entertainment, ect. Cell-phone usage is rare to non-existant and HIHGLY discouraged. And a cornerstone of Burning Man is that it’s a “leave no trace” event, meaning that just as we build this crazy community, we also have to take it down as if we were never there — an element that adds to the dreamlike nature of it all…Was it even real? Luckily I have the pictures (and dust on all of my belongings) to prove it.
There are 10 principles to which Burners subscribe:
Radical inclusion – Anyone may be part of Burning Man.
Gifting – There is no bartering or money exchanged.
Decommodification – No sponsorships or advertising. Tickets (I’m talking tens of thousands) sell out in minutes, as soon as they go on sale. Burning Man is not a music festival. (Although this year, Skrilliex and Carl Cox — two DJs for those of you who, like me, aren’t in the know — played, much to the delight of Mikhail and thousands of other people. But these shows were not announced in advance.)
Radical self-reliance
Radical self-expression — So many fun, interesting styles!
Communal effort
Civic responsibility – Outside laws still apply.
Leave No Trace — The desert will be left better than it was found. This means, among other things, no glitter, feathers, or other foreign objects. A pack it in, pack it out mentality.
Immediacy – One of my favorites. Follow whatever is in front of you.
So hopefully this explains some of Burning Man… but really, it probably won’t because Burning Man is one of those things encapsulated by saying: You just had to be there. Anyway, this was my second time attending. The first was 6 years ago (2012), but this time was going to be different (aka I would be more prepared and it would definitely be more fun). Brittny and Ricky were the reason I decided to go, they spent years convincing me on how much they would help ease me into the scene AND THEN THEY DID 🙂 The two of them brought supplies. Michelle and Scott helped, too! They encouraged me every dusty step of the way. And Natalie graciously brought an air mattress that she shared (thank you!). It was because of these people that I was nurtured into this intimidating event; they were my gateways into Camp Gallivant and my saviers along with Jake (aka Cuddle Puddles), who literally saved my life. If it weren’t for him I probably would’ve just turned into dust and became one with the desert (leave no trace, amiright?) in an entirely un-fun way. But he provided EVERYTHING — a yurt, safe place to sleep, a respite from the wild sun, and most rejuvenating of all, friendship.
Mikhail and Brittny
It made the most sense for me to fly from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania to Reno, Nevada and then to take the Burner Bus to Black Rock City, Nevada (a city that only exists during Burning Man, aka a city that doesn’t exist for 50 weeks out of the year).
The Burner Bus was great. I was so excited that we were about to experience playa magic. But in fact, the magic started on the bus before we even got there with everyone on board acting generous and friendly.
The “I haven’t left the airport” look.
Enjoy the running water while you can, Sammi.
My “Time” at Burning Man
Almost as soon as I stepped off of the bust into this arid artist’s desert city, I felt like like there was no time — only more continued moments of now. #deep #butforrealthough #whatistime. Most things are unplanned (see Principle No. 10: “Immediacy”, follow what’s in front of you), but there was a hand-held schedule of events that was mailed to me (along with my ticket) and thus, I diligently went about reading the entire thing and making a list of everything that I wanted to do and see (even though of course I saw many more things than listed and I missed most what I had planned). Here are some excerpts:
Rise and Shine Yoga
Delicious hot donut holes
Healing foot wash
It’s watermelon time
Knot tying workshop
Legit Hobby Horse Course
LAUGHTER YOGA
Joy climbing wall
Tutu Tuesday
Costco Soulmate Trading Outlet
And literally hundreds of other things happening ALL THE TIME
Once on the playa, and after seeing how my INCREDIBLE group set up their theme camp (REPPIN’ CAMP GALLIVANT), I got a sense for how much work, effort, forethought, and perseverance (especially in the desert climate) it takes to set-up. And once I saw that, it served to make me appreciate Camp Gallivant EVEN MORE!
What follows are excerpts from my Burning Man Odyssey — events, art exhibits, art cars, dust. things, and people who would beautifully and chaotically distract me on the way to nowhere in particular.
When the Burner Bus arrived on the playa we were welcomed on The Red Carpet, which was a carpet that was only red in name, and not in color.
You can be whatever you wanna be, carpet, you’re at Burning Man!
Being part of Camp Gallivant I had a role: Procure ice for the day. FULFILLING IT WAS AN HONOR!!
Welcome to the desert.
Natalie gave me a handmade rainbow scarf and a new notebook (thank you!!). Sidenote: That notebook is totally filled with scraps of notes I wrote to Patrick telling him how much I wished he were there. Soon come?
Mikail gifted me with random facts (for example, did you know if you want to say grandfather in Russian you just replace the Bs with Ds– babushka → dedushka).
Michelle’s father, Firefly, also gifted Camp Gallivant and offered us flights over the playa (he’s a pilot). We got incredible bird’s-eye views of Black Rock City and I got to ride to Reno and back… The views were breathtaking and the company fantastic ❤
Early morning beauty.
I’d add co-pilot to my resume… but I’d be lying.
The whole planet was here for Burning Man and put on quite the impressive art display.
The dunes being dune-lightful.
Burning Man, Burning Lake.
Pasting this picture next to the ‘co-pilot’ title on my resume.
Black Rock City from the sky.
Take me down to paradise city, please.
Here are some other standouts from my journey (once I got back on land, that is):
Everyone was so willing and ready to engage, so welcoming; making genuine eye contact was commonplace and wonderful. (So many people at Burning Man have these gorgeous, light-colored eyes). Alternatively, I felt understood, like I could leave a crowd at any moment with no hard feelings.
Night dreams at Camp Gallivant, snuggling and staying warm; laying underneath that COOL SPIDER with a fire underneath its belly. THANK YOU, TERRY.
Mikhail and I found our Burning Man theme song — “Up all Night to get Lucky.” It’s not necessarily that we wanted it, but we heard it sung every way possible, ways we didn’t even know were possible (like acapella, country, and rock), repeated over and over again, all in a row. So maybe I should say our Burning Man theme song found us.
I felt so much generosity and love from others and of course I wanted to dish out as much as possible too, so I accompanied Brittny to a Burners without Borders talk instead of going to a BBQ Tri Tip event that I had been desperate to attend. IF THAT’S NOT LOVE, I DON’T KNOW WHAT IS.
The inspiration for my LOVE.
Taking literal notes while talking to my guru, Michelle.
The time I ate a fancy, 3-course French meal in the desert.
I appreciated the continuous ‘thanking’ of various positions — like the Trash Removers — involved in the Burning Man community .
Meeting Glory, glory hallelujah when I was struggling to drink water and ride my bicycle at the same time because that’s hard. My cup runneth over, and my heart was OVERFLOWING.
Meeting Allison Grey and getting to share with her. I was also invited onto their art car, which in and of itself was pretty incredible, but I had to respectfully decline because I had plans with my Camp. CAMP GALLIVANT ❤
The nights when we planned to reconvene at Camp “whenever we got cold” rather than at any specific time because, again, what is time?
During my adventuring, I realized that I’m more of a day-burner than a night-burner. For me, Burning Man becomes overstimulating at night and after I realized that I mostly stuck to daytime activities.
Night time still has cool elements but day time is my preference.
Cuddle Puddles and Natalie
Nurse Kickstand (named that in conjunction with both her profession and with her innate ability to hold Scott upright) reiterated my belief that I’m normal. For example, I was talking to her about how hard it was for me to swallow my vitamins, and she gave a great reaffirmation: “It’s hard for most people.” See, totally normal. It was also amazing to be around her infectious, pure, and wonderful laugh.
As I wandered the desert, Michelle told me what plug and play camps were — people could pay a group to set everything up for them; basically like a Burning Man hotel. My goal was to sneak into one of them…and I ended up doing it! — They had an incredible breakfast that included freshly baked chocolate chip scones. Desert?? More like dessert.
Sneaking into a camp with my new, international friends.
At Burning Man, rainbows bring in the morning.
And the playa is a rainbow at night.
I went to an event where I got a bowl of cereal but only AFTER I had offered up a “cereal confession” of sorts. I’ll never tell what I shared.
I found tacos at Burning Man, which was pretty cool. I also met Sir Who What and Tid Bit while I was in line. They were great. I followed them around for hours, going on my first full day’s adventure while rocking super cool red boots, a gift from Natalie.
Sir Who What’s feet and my newly acquired red boots went for a climb.
The dust acts as both an equalizer and a cleanser, making everyone look white-washed and like they’re wearing an Instagram filter which is (happily) exacerbated by the very small amount of clothes attendees wear during the day.
Thanks to Brit, I got to participate in tu-tu Tuesday.
Remember how I’d had that list of everything I wanted to do? (Ha!
I did end up taking one “regular” yoga class. But, in true Burning Man fashion there was a twist…my yoga teacher was dressed up in a shark head. She was a great teacher and kept telling us how impressed she was with all of us! The yoga class, as a whole, made her so proud that she started crying literal tears of joy (but she didn’t take the shark head off, which only served to add to my joy.).
Speaking of joy….I GOT TO PARTICIPATE IN LAUGHTER YOGA!!!!!!!!
LAUGHTER YOGA WAS THE BEST THING I DID ON THE PLAYA! I did it four times, four days in a row. My biggest regret is not going to class the very first day it was offered (but I was happily distracted thanks to Sir Who What and Tid Bit). Laughter Yoga, like most things, is better when everyone (including me!) participates.
I was five minutes late to my first Laughter Yoga session on the playa (#mistake) BUT THEN NEVER, EVER AGAIN. I PLANNED MY ENTIRE DAY AROUND LAUGHTER YOGA, hanging out at my favorite nearby bar (DPW) until it was OFFICIALLY TIME TO LAUGH! The leader of the Laughter Yoga sessions was awesome! He was humble and modest, and if he had comment cards I would tell him not to change a thing except to MAKE IT LONGER!
Throughout the day if anyone asked what my favorite thing was at Burning Man I’d say (or did I yell?) “IT’S ABOUT TO HAPPEN!!”.
Laughter Yoga was my favorite place to make friends on the playa because you could tell how easily a person laughed BEFORE you befriended them! #lifehack Michelle joked that if anyone came to the camp looking for me she would ask them to “show me your laugh!” Which is amazing and how I’d like everyone to greet me from now on. “Show me your laugh!”
Nicolina and the birthday boy (was his name Strawberry?). Nicolina was my favorite laugher.
The friends pictured above are who I hung-out with on my last night. We named ourselves Team Eventually Adventure. Or, Rock, Paper Scissors. We often called a roll-call so we (I) would’t get lost. Yours truly was almost always scissors.
Team Rock, Paper, Scissors (ROCK!, PAPER!, SCISSSORRRS!) needed a respite from the over-stimulating lights and night sounds so we went looking for a camp that was dark and quiet. We stumbled upon one with a gentle light up teddy bear sign out front and several empty benches that looked like they were glowing. This camp also had a cave-like area that seemed to be fairly protected from the elements, great! Just what we were looking for. Giggling non-stop from our adventures, we stepped inside. As our eyes adjusted, we could see that there was a mass-pile of soft, giant teddy bears skewed about all over the floor. Nice. Hopefully we could use these as pillows. But before we jumped onto the pile, we let our eyes adjust more and we slowly realized that THIS WAS ACTUALLY A PILE OF PEOPLE SLEEPING IN SOFT BEAR COSTUMES. I mean… WHAT?! Taking the furries to the next level. We started whispering the news to each other and got really quiet, backing away cautiously, just as you’re supposed to do when you encounter a cave full of bears.
Safely out of the woods, with my human friends.
By the end of my time at Burning Man, I was having so much fun that I almost missed the Burner Bus back to the airport. I miscalculated how far away our camp was from the terminal and Ricky sweetly offered to bike me (and all of my stuff) to the station. We made it on time but not before the two of us toppled over while scrambling to catch the bus. Everyone was fine and it definitly made the journey more memorable. As Molly would say, “The fun is in the rushing!”. Thanks to Ricky for helping me not to get abandoned in the desert!
“Thank God!” is right! It’s a jungle in the desert.
When I got back to the airport aka ‘the default world’, I could tell who had just been in the desert (and not only because they had just gotten off of the Burner Bus with me but also) by their dirty legs, interesting outfits, and most notably, their shoes.
I started the deep de-dusting of all of my possessions outside at the airport, since I had 12 hours before my plane departed. A couple of white clothing items had to be thrown away (see those white overalls in an above photo), but others I methodically wiped down and beat out the dust. I had just started this MASSIVE undertaking when one guy saw me and said, “Give it up!” Ha! Two hours later, I was really grateful I had taken the the time to do it. I love taking care of my belongings! Note to self, it was an important part of my 2018 post-Burning-process to de-dust all of my belongings at the airport.
My final thoughts before I slept on the floor of the airport were ones of gratitude: ‘Are airport stalls and toilets always this clean?’. And ‘Wow, how good does it feel to wash your hands with warm, running water?!’ (‘ooo, girl, wash those hands!’)
Least favorites.
Playa names (these are names people use solely for Burning Man). For some, I think they like the anonymity of theses names. For me, I felt like it didn’t create long lasting connections and only served to further the ephemeral encounters.
Before I found Laughter Yoga I struggled to find enough laughter on the playa. There was joy and generosity (SO MUCH GENEROSITY IT WAS MIND BLOWING! Especially from Camp Gallivant and specifically JAKE! I CAN NEVER MENTION ENOUGH HOW GRATEFUL I AM FOR JAKE! ❤ ). That being said, unfortunately, outside of my camp, I couldn’t find people who shared my same sense of humor. It’s probably there. In fact, I’m sure it’s there. But I didn’t find it (until Laughter Yoga came along).
How sticky some of the men could be. (#notallmen but let’s not derail the issue.) The Burning Man environment encourages openness — it’s an absolute pleasure for me to be easygoing, happy, and engaging. That’s my default, for those of you who know me, AND I LOVE IT. But I found, even at Burning Man (where I thought I could be myself), I had to be careful (read: more closed) about sending the wrong message with my very pure (I stand by that) interactions. Lame! I think a lot of it has to do with how I look, as I discussed at length with my seatmate on the Burner Bus who followed up with me after. My bubbly, respectful personality was misinterpreted. Friendship intimacy was mistaken for romantic intimacy by a married guy in a monogamous relationship (smacks face). Come ON. In the end, we had a healthy adult conversation (which, as a compliment to him, was not the case with lots of these stories) where he listened, apologized, and encouraged me “not to change just because he misinterpreted” which was sweet and heartening. J****, if you’re reading this, we did have a happy ending but I’m writing about this inappropriate interaction because it was personality-suppressing, exhausting, unnecessary, and far too common.
It’s always easier for me to send boys away when it’s for my team, I get super protective.
On the Burner Bus.
The lack of women friendships that I developed. I realized towards the end of my Burn this was the case and, once I realized it, focused on making it a goal (helloooo Laughter Yoga). Outside of Camp Gallavant, men were easier to meet and more readily available, but I’d like to find some of those desert gal pals! #Lessonsforthefuture
The effects of the elements on my skin, eyes, nails, and legs. It was sooo tough out there; It’s difficult to imagine living in the desert for any longer than the five days that I spent there. My whole body needed to be soothed (but my mind was happy!).
The intensity of the night-time lights and music. As I said before, it was overkill for me. When I did stay up all night I couldn’t wait for the daylight to come and make the stimulation stop. It was a total overload.
Not a good example of the overload,…look how cool this moving art piece is!
List of Things I’d Want if I Came Again:
*GASP*
…Does That Mean That I Would?!
More bike lights (can’t have too many)
Carabiners
Cute boots (thank you, Natalie, for those red ones!)
A strong, fancy coat for at night with fur and lights — think outrageous
A cup with a handle and ID attached
A traveler’s outfit — I saw a girl that looked like she was going on a safari. Dark green jumpsuit. Bandana accent cloth around head… Need I say more?
Multiple pairs of goggles. One for the day and one for the night. Possibly ones that will fit over my glasses?
Gifts to remember the interaction. I’m thinkin’ stickers with contact info…
And Bam, remember, for better or for worse, the playa destroys.
The more lights the better!
The End of an Odyssey
Burning Man is a difficult environment to be in, you really end up understanding just how much effort it takes to survive in these elements. That might sound dramatic, but it’s true. Burning Man is hard. But, with that being said, Burning Man is also a bunch of sexy humans who embrace the outdoors and harsh environment #rugged and allow it to inspire them artistically and spiritually. Everything about Burning Man — the people, the art, the cars, the values, the interactions, the sand — is beautiful. In 2018, Black Rock City captivated me.
Overall, I enjoyed the earlier days of this Burn the most because of all of the people who had put in hard work. And all week I took advantage of “Radical Inclusion”; Everyone is constantly sharing and offering up invitations (that I gladly accepted!).
As I was at the Reno airport, leaving Nevada, I saw a girl turn on her phone after a week of having it off in the desert. “What happened in New York?” her friend asked, to which the girl responded, “I promise you, nothing more interesting than what happened at Burning Man.” I couldn’t help but agree; It was a fascinating week.
So I’m not going to write this blog post in Shakespearean prose because…that sounds really hard. But I will say that in my midsummer (which, honestly, doesn’t rival the original, I’m not trying to compete, Shakespeare) — there was absurd fun, laughter, drinking, hanging out in nature, waking up to random fairy creatures (just kidding although I did witness some really awesome clouds with magic-like qualities). Please sit back, relax, and enjoy the show (aka my blog).
PARTY EVENTS
Helen, Kristin, and I got ourselves invited (by asking to be invited) to Nanny Stock (thank you, Lauren!) where we set up a camping spot and enjoyed this small, friendly memorable festival. As we were pitching our tent, which was a daunting task, Helen lifted our spirits by reminding us that camping “looked hard, but it was just fun in disguise.” Once we set up, we hung out, laid on that Peruvian blanket, and watched the clouds roll by. We each got to make a wish…and all of them came true. Helen even saw a shooting star (which made me wonder, was her first wish for a second wish?!). It was a great weekend.
That camping fun sure does look like a lot of work. Thanks for the help, everyone!
Sky Blot test: what do you see?
Can’t get enough of these clouds!
Making wishes that all came true.
I also went to….my second Hanson concert! Hanson was playing live with the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra — how special — and Laura, Emily and I had center seats…but all the way up in the back as if I didn’t book these tickets 3 months ago. We had to take an elevator to get there, haha. Regardless, the show was fantastic. The Hanson boys kept switching instruments and even sang a brief acapella song at the end which was my favorite. No offense, symphony. After the show we waited outside in the hopes that we would get to chat with them (a true fanson always holds out hope). Alas, they escaped to their hotel without time for photos.
Look at all of those brothers on that stage.
Sisters from other misters going to see the brothers.
Another concert that I LOVED was Taylor Swift, opened by Camila Cabello. We got “Ready for it!” at the dreamflat and walked over to Heinz Field. I got to sit next to Helen which was invaluable because she whispered little known facts and commentary in my ear, really enhancing my experience. Such a good show.
Pregaming for End Game (wink, wink).
Another cool mid-summer party: A Harry Potter-themed event by Eva, whom I had met only once anywhere from 3-6 years ago, I couldn’t remember. The two of us had really connected over a random lunch but I hadn’t seen her since. This was the first time that we were in touch and again, it was because she invited me to a Harry Potter themed house-party! I said yes immediately, sent her a message confirming that she had indeed meant to invite me (she had!), asked if I could invite Helen (I could!) and took the night off of work to attend. There was no way Helen and I were going to miss out on this golden snitch of an opportunity. Per Eva’s request, Helen and I got sorted into houses on Pottermore before the event (we were both Ravenclaw), dressed up in all the HP these clothes we had, and drew lightning bolts on our foreheads (see below). We were very excited.
Hindsight: Wishing we had a spell for face recognition.
It wasn’t until we arrived at the house and went inside that I realized I had totally forgotten what Eva looked like. Talk about a party house-cup foul. I panicked but we started mingling right away, surely I would recognize her….right? We ended up on the porch talking to a guy who also hadn’t seen Eva in awhile but had gone to highschool with her. “She’s great!” I said. “Yeah, she’s great!”, he said right back. “Which one is she?” I asked. “What, are you kidding?” he asked. Helen was cracking up, I shot her a glance and said “Yeah, of course, but pretend I’m not. Will you point her out?” He looked at us like surely this was a joke and pointed to a group of 3 women. “The one with glasses?”, Helen asked. “No”, he said. “The one with the crazy pants?”, I countered. “No!”, he laughed. Haha, okay, great, the other one! Two wrong guesses later, Bel and I went to say hi to our gracious host whose face both of us will totally recognize from now on. To Eva’s credit she recognized me right away and was excited to see me, too 🙂
Shortly after that little mishap, which nobody knew about except the guy (sworn to silence because we used the silencio charm on him), the party officially got started. It was so well organized!! Eva hosted with a fake British accent. Bel and I grouped up with the other Ravenclaws. We played flip cup with spells, quidditch, find the Horcrux, wizard chess, and trivia. We got a little competitive, lost horribly, but still had so much fun that we are inspired to throw our own theme party. (This post is a reminder for team #dreamflat to plan that.) Our night ended in the Southside eating delicious Cambodian food.
Ending a midsummer night in Southside.
Regardless of how it started or how competitive we got, we must not have totally blown it at the HP party like we thought we did because I ended up meeting Allison who invited me to Phipps conservatory. She had served in the Peace Corps in Guinea (not Papa, or French… just OG Guinea). She then invited me to an awesome Peace Corps dinner where she cooked a ton of delicious, homegrown food and I got to meet her other Peace Corps friends from Moldova and South Africa.
In other ‘foreigners I’ve met this summer’ news, I hosted a Couchsurfer from Niagara Falls who helped me go on a little staycation. I got to explore the city with a fresh perspective and end another night in the Southside watching the chaos.
HOUSE EVENTS
I started growing my own mushrooms. No, not the magic kind. The shiitake kind. After carefully cultivating, growing, and harvesting my first round of ‘shrooms, I was delicately moving them while we were cleaning the dream flat — after I had spent days soaking and caring for them — WHEN SPLAT! I DROPPED MY PRECIOUS MUSHROOM dirt all over the floor. *Whisper Scream!* I couldn’t real scream because Patrick (Hi, Patrick!! We love and miss you!) was sleeping upstairs. (Whisper screams are more concerning anyway, I guess.) And Helen came running to see what was wrong. Such a shame to lose them, they were really fun-gis (lol get it?).
Our fridge got clogged (never again, jello shots) so Helen brought the cold items to wee Emily’s house to store in her fridge. Moving in the first time she ever went there. Classic lesbian. Thanks, Emily!
Helen got new glasses 🙂 They are a -.75 and look adorable but are a slight buzzkill because they’re always so negative and complaining about how she can’t see.
Negative glasses for a positively wonderful person.
Speaking of Helen, she and I were long overdue for a bestie date (haha do we just always feel this way or is this just always true?!), so we headed to Eighth Grade (the movie, because nobody needs to go back to experience puberty). It was great — we love Bo Burnham — and made us thankful that we are, from now on, grownups.
Bestie date.
I was inspired to get a job in government work (highly classified)– or at least tell people I work for the government. “I’m a government contractor. I do government work. I can’t talk about it.”
I found out the owner of the bar where I work is selling (but hopefully everything else remains the same) …Maybe I really will have to work for the government, Josh.
I hung out with Jodi and Bella and went for a walk (one of many because….)
A walk by the river where we ran into the Regatta.
PLANES, MOTORCYCLES, AUTOMOBILES
…My scooter got hit by a truck (all the crying emojis!!!!) PUBLIC ENEMY NUMBER ONE: a Chevy Silverado. But not all of them. Just the red one that hit my scooter. Luckily, she was parked (legally – “Excuse me, ma’am, you know nothing.” / “I’m not going to thank you for doing the right thing.”), no one was driving her, and the people who hit her came inside to get me and their insurance paid for everything. But for an entire month during the best part of the summer (but not early or late summer — read: mid summer) I didn’t get to drive Pinksburgh. I fought hard with their insurance company, and ultimately they rented me a motorcycle for three days. Ahhh!!!! HOW EXCITING!!!! I ended up getting….
A monster. A complete monster (pictured below). An 800cc BMW machine that was waaaayyy too big for me and held waaaaayyyy too much power. The guys at Eagle Rider were incredibly kind and patient with me but I could. not. handle it! I needed to downgrade. Didn’t they have any scooters I could rent?? No. After spending 30 minutes trying to ride the 800cc beast I had to return it. In it’s place, Eagle Rider gave me another monster. This one was larger (in height) but smaller (in CCs — 400). I still couldn’t leave the parking lot. Every day (for 3 days) I drove my car to the rental place, geared up, and drove that motorcycle around the parking lot getting better each day but never actually taking her out onto the road. It was like a motorcycle carousel ride (but more dangerous) and I’ve decided that it’s the scooter life for me, thanks!
Monster #1
Monster #2
I visited Findley Lake with some beautiful women I don’t get to see very often:
Two aunts and a niece.
I also learned about my mom’s stunning garden– like mother like daughter, eh? Just kidding, she wasn’t growing mushrooms indoors.
I got ready to feel THE BURN. AKA prepped for Burning Man.
And, after the furries (most wonderful time of the year), I headed to Toronto to visit a legend for a hot minute and to support England in the World Cup.
Seeing double (and not just because my phone case still has fuzz on it from the furries).
Ordering traditional fish & chips to honor the OG motherland.
We started the weekend on an Austin Powers themed couch and ended it with our faces painted to root for the monarch.
Anecdote: I sent the above picture to Nikola in Croatia, congratulating him on the World Cup win over England but included “ignore the face paint” in the caption. He said “that would be like my wife sending me a naked picture but telling me to ignore the guy in the background.” Ha!
Nikola, Congrats to Croatia!
On the way back from Toronto, I slept in the car to harness all of the energy I possibly could before seeing Patrick and packing for a mere hour to then rush off on our 25-hour transit into Kazakhstan. They asked me if I had anything to declare at customs… I sure did.
FRIEND EVENTS
I went to Goat Fest with Emily where I got to meet her bestie, Erin and, later, Erin’s boyfriend, Josh. Josh brought a penny (not one cent but, like, a sports shirt) for Erin to wear and all the girls went into the bathroom to switch clothes. We took photos to commemorate. See below.
One of these is now hanging on my mirror.
I got to have a fun dinner with Josh and Kristin (what a group!) at my favorite restaurant, Cafe du Jour.
I played darts, went to a bonfire, started Anne of Green Gables and was “one curry away from eating a curry” (beans, veggies, and pineapple from a can).
At one point during our midsummer, Helen and I were 85% positive (still are) that someone is pregnant (hint: it’s not one of us!)
MmmMOPIN’ AROUND
Helen got to perform twice at the Pittsburgh Comedy Festival, plus a special edition Harry Potter show at Penny Arcade. Harry Potter was a theme this midsummer (wink). During Helen’s shorter second set (which was so fun) she told a Hanson joke and then, because of that, Mmmbop – by her favorite band – was the closing song of the Pittsburgh Comedy Festival!!! AHHH!!!!! You can only imagine how excited we got! I told you… this midsummer was a DREAM!!!
I still feel the anticipation and it’s already happened.
After her closing set, Helen and I got to help clean up Arcade Comedy theater, which we were honored to do. Cleaning, you say? Honored? YES!! You know the feeling where you get to take care of the things you love? Like making your bed after you’ve slept in it? Welllll…
Mmmoping with love & elbow grease.
Faces of the Pittsburgh Comedy Festival #PGHisfunny
HAMILTON, HAMILTON!
Earlier this year, I bought Helen Hamilton tickets for her birthday (watch her amazing reaction below!).
The day finally arrived for the show and we road tripped to Cleveland with her besties, Patrick and Andy (hi, guys!), stayed at an airbnb, popped into the original Moe’s Tavern (which inspired the Simpsons’ bar as the writers lived above it!), and went to Playhouse Square to see one of the greeeeatest shows around! It was so good, even better than Helen and I thought it was going to be. We loved it. We got into an Uber in the best moods of our lives and said “HELLO! …. stranger” to the driver.
Young, scrappy, and hungry.
“Talk less. Smile more. Don’t let them know what you’re against or what you’re for.”
“And when my time is up, have I done enough? Will they tell my story?”— Eliza
Bestie’s Best Belated Birthday!
Helen and I ended the night at a hot chocolate bar, it was truly a midsummer for the ages.
‘Til summer’s end, ‘mi
Pittsburgh in the (MID)summer #nofilter
PS. Hi to Paul and Siri who always read until the end 🙂
The Adventures of the Chocolate Covered Goldfish – Part 4
A guest blog by Patrick
We awoke to a gorgeous sunrise over Issyk Kul, and enjoyed a breakfast sharing our favorite (and least favorite) places to travel to with the group of British boys we had met the night before. After packing up the chocolate-covered goldfish and the rest of our backpacks, we savored our final few moments in our yurt before hitting the road. We were essentially starting our trip back to Pittsburgh, with overnight pit stops in Bishkek (Kryzgryzygyryzstan’s capital) and Almaty. We thought our luck had continued in Bokonbayevo when we found ourselves with the entire backseat to ourselves as our taxi set off on the four-hour journey to Bishkek. Unfortunately, we were instead offered up a Double Downgrade as we stopped and picked up an extra passenger and then were ushered into a car with non-working windows. And we thought the Inverse Hitch was bad! I summed up the ride in my journal as follows: “So hot, so uncomfortable.” We did manage to secure some delicious peaches at a stop along the way, and the Kazakh lady who tried as hard as she could to speak English with us was grateful when we offered her some. #SharePoint We were luckily given the opportunity to pee as well, which would have been better had there not been a man pooping right next to me.
We arrived in Bishkek feeling hot and exhausted, but the local shop we were dropped off near had neither Coke nor water, which forced us to flee towards town in search of fluids. Luckily, the gas station we stumbled upon had ICE CREAM, which gave us an opportunity to compare a Magnum to the local ice cream. Talk about a mismatch! We wandered into town along shady, tree-lined streets in search of wifi. We found a cinema (which we definitely returned to!), passed through the university, ate some cake (#youliketotryeverythingdontyou), and finally located wifi at a cafe where the food looked way better than it tasted. We made a plan for our 24 hours in Bishkek, booked a hostel, and headed to the cinema!
I love fasty food.
Sammi: “This looks science-y.”
There’s nothing better than going to the movies in another country, and we were primed for some AIR CONDITIONING after that “So hot, so uncomfortable.” ride. Deciding what film to see proved challenging: there were so many great choices and we had no idea what they were. We tried our best to compare the options on the screen with the film posters hanging on the walls, but it was harder than pronouncing Kyrgyzstan. We eventually decided on a film, bought our tickets, and headed straight to the concession stand (because, you know, POPCORN). Wow! Wow! Wow! We encountered a whole display showing SEVEN different types of popcorn. This was like a dream come true!
So many good choices! If only we knew what they were.
A picture is worth a thousand pieces of popcorn.
After some taste testing and deliberation, we finally made a choice and were ushered into the tiniest cinema either of us had ever been in. The film started and we were initially excited by our choice – it was a Kyrgyz film (when else in our life will we have the chance to see a Kyrgyz film in the cinema) that was set in Bishkek and around Issyk Kul. I was initially dismayed that we had no idea what the people were saying, but Sammi reassured me that it looked like an action film and we should be able to follow along based upon the action. Unfortunately, the majority of the first 45 minutes involved characters sitting around talking. WE HAD NO IDEA WHAT WAS GOING ON! We laughed until we cried. Then we got yelled at by an usher for putting our feet on the seats in front of us. Then we laughed until we cried again. Towards the end of the film we finally started to feel like we had it all figured out. In the penultimate scene the main character, an older man, was taken to the hospital after spending several hours floating around in the lake. A shot showed him looking week then panned to his heart rate monitor as it appeared to go blank. “I know what that means!” declared Sammi confidently. We both lost it when the old man stepped out of the hospital room ten seconds later…
Thoroughly perplexed by what we had just experienced, we set off from the cinema for Viva Hostel. After some sock and hair clip shopping we circled our hostel multiple times before eventually finding the front door. “Are you sure it’s here?” I asked as we walked through a rough looking industrial area full of drunk men. We were assured by the hotel staff that the area was safe and were so excited to have air conditioning that we took a nice early evening nap. Well-rested, we set off into Bishkek in the hopes of ticking off some Bingo squares by finding live music and some local fare. We were BLOWN AWAY to stumble upon streets full of open fire barbecues cooking delicious smelling skewers of chicken (called shashlik). We immediately ordered some and were transported into a world where chicken tastes better than anything we’d ever had. We bought extra for the road and couldn’t have been happier to be walking through the streets with a plastic bag full of chicken.
This is literally the best barbecue in the world.
Nighttime in Bishkek.
Our plan was to check out the live music at Metro Pub, and after running into the British boys (again!) and dodging a bloody man with no shirt on we arrived to find the pub completely empty. We decided to come back later, and made our way towards the center of town where we enjoyed some of the beautiful buildings lit up at night. We eventually found ourselves at Center Bar, where the entire 2nd floor was dedicated to karaoke! We ordered a hookah, drank some beer, and made friends with our Uzbeki neighbor. He had a deep voice and seemed to be taking the karaoke very seriously; later on he admitted that he had gotten divorced two weeks ago and was singing sad Russian ballads to drown his sorrows. Gulp. We crossed off a Bingo square by ‘Bust-ing a Move’ and then found the most amazing ice cream stand on the street. Run by an adorable couple from France, we watched in awe as our ice cream was poured, frozen, and rolled on the spot. We HAD to get some.
When we eventually made it back to Metro Pub, the place was hopping! We wandered into the back to find an extraordinary rave with a hot rasta DJ, gorgeous women dressed impeccably, a killer light show, and lots of interesting people to watch. We had a great time drinking beer and analyzing the scene in front of us; we even spent some time talking about how much fun it would be to be a Peace Corps Volunteer in Kyrgyzstan. Whoa! When we finally made our way back up front we discovered a live Russian band playing a mix of Russian and American hits. We drank local beer, took shots of vodka with some locals who felt I wasn’t dancing hard enough, and soaked in the scene. It was surreal, and we spent half an hour watching people and chatting outside before finally heading home to our air-conditioned bed.
We had a grand plan for the final day of our adventure, and started our morning with shashlik for breakfast. Yum. We spent a few hours in Osh Market, and had an amazing time shopping for shoes and hair clips. Our journey took us through endless stalls of fruit, vegetables, nuts, clothes, plants, bread, pastries, and just about anything else you could imagine. We ran into the British boys (again!) and really had to convince them that we weren’t stalking them. We found some furry ears that were purr-fect for exfurcising (everyone needs a pair!), drank a ten cent cup of beer, tried lots of candy, and once again threw away a half-full cup of fermented milk.
A rainbow of pastries!
Is that a wheel of bread?
We found another shashlik restaurant for lunch and promptly over-ordered. How could we not?!? We ate juicy, delicious chicken until we were stuffed and then bagged the rest. It ended up being a great gift for our generous hotel receptionist. We grabbed our bags, made sure the chocolate-covered goldfish were secure, and set off for the taxi stand. We returned to our favorite gas station, and this time we stuck with the Magnum. We purchased nine Kyrgyz chocolate bars (#itsallaboutthewrapper) and were finally ready to say goodbye to Kryzyrgryzstan. Unfortunately, we had to wait forever for our taxi to set off and eventually had to resort to Jamaican tactics (getting into other vehicles and threatening to leave) to get on the road. Our ride was luxurious and we were able to cross the border into Kazakhstan despite the fact that the border agent didn’t think Sammi was the person in her passport photo. We bought more ice cream and nine Kazakh chocolate bars (#itsallaboutthewrapper) just across the border, then soaked in the landscape over the final hour of our ride into Almaty.
Oh my god. Oh my god. Oh my god. Oh my god. Oh my god.
One bite in: “Let’s order two more.”
We finally jumped out in a suburb of Almaty where Alex (our amazing CouchSurfing friend) was with his wife and son. We met him at a massive grocery store where we loved wandering the aisles and buying canned horse meat, chocolate, frozen yogurt treats, and cookies (#youliketotryeverythingdontyou). We had a last supper of shashlik and beer, and were humbled when some drunk men celebrating a birthday invited us to their house for a feast. Alex reminded us that our flight was in eight hours and Kazakh feasts last for days, so we politely declined and instead headed to Alex’s house to meet his wife and son. We had a great time playing with his son and talking about traveling before catching our final taxi to the airport. After an incredible 10 days in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, our trip had finally come to an end.
“We’d like you to be first American in our home.”
I’ll let my final entry in my journal sum up the experience:
“This trip really has been amazing – in many ways the opposite of hard. The people have been so welcoming and friendly, the food has been good and interesting, the scenery has been beautiful, and life has been full of adventure.”
It’s been over two months since Patrick sent me this INCREDIBLE blog about our continued time in Kirg….Kergiz…Kiergiez….Kyrgyzstan. I hope you enjoy reading it as much as I did!
The Adventures of the Chocolate Covered Goldfish – Part 3
A guest blog by Patrick
We awoke after an amazing yurt’s sleep to find a fun breakfast waiting for us in the family-style dining yurt. It was yurtastic (especially the candy!) and we had a great chat with a Slovenian couple who were incredulous when Sammi showed them the Slovenian sticker on her notebook. We returned to our yurt to gather our things, then caught a ride to Bokonbayevo (which is hard to say and even harder to spell) for our yurt-building workshop. If there’s one constant in Sammi and I’s adventures, it’s that when we find something we like we try our hardest to overdo it (#howmuchchaicanwegetifweorderinbulk), and it was clear we were going to push this nomadic tent thing until it yurts. (Hahahahahaha!, said sammi reading that just now!)
Sammi ‘quickly’ (read ‘painstakingly slowly’) uploaded her snaps at the tourism office and I stepped outside to check out the town. My ears almost started yurting as I strained to make out a sound that was emanating from down the street. “Was that music?” Knowing that I couldn’t turn to Sammi for help with the situation, I followed my ears and before I knew it I was standing under a lamppost in the center of town staring up at single speaker playing one of the most beautiful songs I had ever heard. It was surreal, and I thought about recording it before deciding that I’d just savor the moment. When you travel, some experiences are left in the perfect place that you found them…
Snaps uploaded, we met our translators (we had paid extra because we were confident having a translator would enhance the experience and give us lots of information about the local culture) and hopped in the taxi to the yurt construction site. As we passed by lots of yurtile farmland, we started to prod our translators for information about Kygry… (“How do you say it again?”). Unfortunately, they were teenage girls with a rudimentary understanding of English, so our information was limited to largely monosyllabic words. Our yurt-building instructor was an incredibly interesting guy who had grown up in the traditional nomadic lifestyle of the region (riding horses, living in yurts, chasing animals to hunt), which sounded idyllic to us but was “tiring” to him. He was happy to have settled down and didn’t miss life on the road horse. Constructing the yurt was a fascinating experience and was just difficult enough to make us want to feel like Smartbo again. We persevered and completed our yurt, and our hearts only yurt a little when we realized they were going to immediately take it down.
Yurtelling me that’s all there is to it?
Ok, it’s yurturn.
Yurt so good. Come on baby let me yurt so good.
The excitement didn’t stop with the yurt construction, as we were ushered over to the other side of the road we learned how each of the yurt parts were made. The craftsmanship was impressive! We then got a lesson on traditional bow and arrow making as well as hunting, which really proved to be a highlight. Sammi was transformed into Smartbo(w) with a traditional hat on her head and a bow in her hands.
Is that shirt hunter green?
Yurtmade swings!
Luckily our adventure wasn’t over, as we were treated to tea and yurtmade sweets by the family. Now we were in our element! The sweets were delicious and we enjoyed ‘chatting’ with our host about his life since he started hosting tourists and teaching them about his traditional lifestyle. His wife showed us some beautiful crafts that she had made, and we were both excited to leave with new slippers.
Work hard, tea hard.
We caught our ride back to town and noticed ominous clouds on the horizon. We had scheduled a horse ride for that afternoon (because you know, horses) and the weather was a concern. After significant back and forth between our tour operators, we finally decided to risk it and head to the hills for a quick ride to a lookout point. We were slightly confused when the man from the tourist office hopped into our taxi with us, but he was hilarious so we looked past the fact that the tourist office representative had just sold us a tour operated by himself. We got our horses and were immediately grateful that we hadn’t followed our initial plan to just rent horses on our own. It turns out that the horses in Kyzgry – I mean, Kyrgyzstan – just roam wild most of the time and then are ‘caught’ by locals when they want to ride them. They’re not exactly the horses we ride in the USA.
The ride to the ride.
The ride.
“My horse won’t go.”
“My horse just goes.”
We survived a brief rainstorm before enjoying a gorgeous ride up to the panoramic lookout. Sammi’s horse was great, and just followed the guide straight up the mountain. She had an incredibly pleasurable ride. My horse, on the other hand, didn’t like the concept of moving. I did a lot of kicking, a lot of “Whhhhoooooosssshhhh”-ing (the supposed command for ‘GO’), and a lot of standing still. Oh well, at least it was beautiful. I had a nice conversation with my guide about his favorite words in the Kyrgyz language after a failed foray into cross-cultural joke-telling.
“Why were you so far behind?”
The view from the top.
My guide: “Want to hear a joke?” Me: “Yes.” My guide: “Well it doesn’t want you.”
We tried some fresh fermented mare’s milk and watching kids play before heading back down the mountain to town. We had skipped lunch and were feeling hungry, so we stopped into a local cafe bar and ordered a delicious plate of chicken & lamb with more potatoes than we’d ever seen. We also found a strange food for sale at the counter which led to us playing one of our other favorite games: Guess What This Tastes Like!
“Spraying Beer. Beer to Drive.” Yep, let’s go there.
We returned to our yurt camp (now knowing how they were made!) for another great dinner of lamb, flat noodles, and a potato dish. We had a great chat with some British boys before a perfect sunset spent down at the beach drinking beer and dreaming up plans of starting a foundation to help people travel. We talked about life and watched the stars before retiring to our yurt for bed after another amazing day…
The Adventures of the Chocolate Covered Goldfish – Part 2: The Fairy Canyon
A guest blog by Patrick
We awoke the next morning to find breakfast waiting for us in the hotel dungeon dining room, where we were only slightly distracted by the Russian sex pop music videos blasting from the television in the corner. We laughed a ton and survived the dangerous cherry pit jelly before deciding to do 20 minutes of exercise in the hotel courtyard. #notquiteexfurcise We had an efficient, effective, and somewhat extreme planning session (you know, because we didn’t really know where we were or what there was to do) that led to us booking a yurt-building workshop (when in Kyrgyzstan) and horseback ride out of Bokonbayevo, which was located about 130 km West on the Southern edge of Issyk Kul. We packed up our belongings (including our bounty of chocolate-covered goldfish) and tried to hurry to set off. As Sammi later put it, “We rushed with our words.”
This school is ready for an adventure!
Before leaving Karakol we wanted to stock up on supplies for the day, because we hoped to visit the remote Skaska Canyon along the way and weren’t sure when we’d reach our final destination. We arrived at the market and immediately bought some local apples and plums. I stumbled upon a stall selling about 20 different types of what appeared to be salads, and was overly excited because we were both jones-ing for some vegetables. Sammi joined me and we started to motion to see if we could try one of the options. The woman behind the counter laughed and responded in perfect English, and 8 minutes later we had tried cow lung salad and pig stomach medley and were weighed down with 8 giant bags of every type of vegetable and mushroom salad you could imagine. In hindsight, we should have seen it coming. Of course we were going to buy too much! In our defense, we did actually ask for less salad but the lady insisted that “This is the smallest portion I can sell it in.” The salads posed a conundrum: how were we going to eat them? Was the trip getting hard? False alarm. The stall next to us had a fork and spoon set, complete with non-sharp tips to protect the plastic bags we were eating out of, for the meager price of 10 cents. Heavily-laden with healthy food and prepared to eat it, we returned to our hotel to begin our journey.
Smalled up. Kind of.
We both ended up seeking the advice of an intense Russian man who acted as the travel agent at our hotel with regards of the best way to get to Bokonbayevo via Skaska Canyon. “Are you millionaires?” he joked after I asked how much it was to charter a private taxi. Public was much cheaper, and after some minor confusion about what the numbers on the marushkas actually meant, we finally found the taxi stand and opted for a shared taxi with adorable dressed up girls in the back seat. The scenery along the lake was gorgeous and we talked about travel as we made our way to our first stop.
Is this that Fairy Tale where the best friends die because they can’t find any shade?
We hopped out at Skaska Canyon, known locally as Fairy Tale Canyon, and started the “short hike to the canyon” which turned into a death march. Bogged down by excessive salad and shoes that slowly filled with sand, we trudged our way a few miles into the rolling hills under the midday sun. We made a crucial tactical decision to stash Sammi’s bag, which buoyed our collective spirits and made us feel like Smartbo.
“Let’s take a picture of the bag just in case we forget where it is.”
“Are we there yet?”
Fortunately, it was worth it. The geography was interesting to say the least, and the multitude of layered colors set against the backdrop of the deep blue sky, snow-covered mountains, and alpine lake was spectacular. I’ll let the photos speak for themself.
#worthit
“Look cool. Literally”
How do you say sunburn in Kyrgyz?
“Have you seen my friend shade?”
We searched far and wide for a nice, shady spot with a view, but were unfortunately denied by the fact that there was indeed no shade. Literally – the only place it could be found was right next to a cliff. We eventually let hunger (and the fact that we could smell our salads cooking in the midday sun) take over and decided to eat on top of a hill with a gorgeous view of the entire scene. It was almost perfect. Quote from my journal: “We suffered through lunch…”
“I found shade!”
Picnic selfie. Not pictured: sunburnt arms and legs.
After taking in the view one last time and posing for some pics, we set off down the hill and stopped at the first shady spot that could accommodate the both of us. We sat down, drank some water, and reflected on how much better it felt to not be baking in the sun. “That picnic really was torture.” We reached into our bag and were overwhelmed to find a special surprise for dessert: somehow we had forgotten about the chocolate-covered goldfish! The fact that the chocolate had melted made the experience of eating way more goldfish than we should have even better – we got to use our plasticware and the delicious clumps chocolatey goodness just melted in our mouths. We laughed until we cried. Then laughed until we cried again. We soaked in the perfect moment until Sammi watched me pick at an ingrown hair and yelled, “That’s disgusting, you’re tamping my tail!”
Open wide…
On the road again.
We reluctantly re-shouldered our packs and headed to the main road to catch a bus. After passing a massive Buddha-like statue of what turned out to be a local millionaire, we disembarked in the little village of Tom where I had picked out a set of yurts right on the shore of the lake to stay in. We had a tiring but beautiful walk, discussing how much you can tell about a place by its dogs before descending upon a local beach. It was a gorgeous sight to take in, so I rushed Sammi straight past it.
Our sneaky approach to the local swimming beach.
“How much walking have we done today?”
The final mile along the shore of Issyk Kul was stunning, and we laughed and played with our shadows as we approached Bel-Tam Yurt Camp. The place felt like an oasis, and we were lucky to find a perfect yurt overlooking the water waiting for us. We bathed in the crystal clear waters of Issyk Kul, which means ‘warm lake’ because it never freezes due to its 0.6% saline content. The water was perfect and the surrounding scenery was amazing. Feeling refreshed, we headed to the main yurt for a delicious family-style dinner on the floor that included heapings of plov, vegetables, pastries, and candy. We learned all about Kyrgyzstan (and Poland) from a Polish UN worker and played a ‘board’ game with the kids before grabbing some stellar local ‘312 Wheat’ beer and settling in for the sunset. We played with an adorable puppy and watched the gorgeous night sky unfold in front of us. There were more satellites in the night sky than we had ever seen, and we saw shooting star after shooting star before heading in for a well-earned night’s sleep.